{"id":7197,"date":"2020-07-09T15:01:12","date_gmt":"2020-07-09T15:01:12","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.mcelhinneyart.com\/?p=7197"},"modified":"2023-03-06T12:05:13","modified_gmt":"2023-03-06T12:05:13","slug":"sketchbook-traveler-dispatch-74","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.mcelhinneyart.com\/jlmcelhinney\/sketchbook-traveler-dispatch-74\/","title":{"rendered":"Sketchbook Traveler. July 7, 2020. Dispatch # 74. March 7-8, 1862 Battlefield of Pea Ridge \/ Elkhorn Tavern. April 7, 2014"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"
\nMarch 8, 1862 Battlefield of Pea Ridge\/Elkhorn Tavern<\/a>. Arkansas. April 7, 2014.<\/p>\n

In February of 2014 Kathie began a residency at Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art<\/a> in Bentonville Arkansas. She had never been to that part of the country. I had traveled to the Ozarks once before.<\/p>\n

In 1977, Yale School of Art professor Bernard Chaet (1924-2012), and his wife Ninon Lacey enlisted my help in collecting a few pieces of furniture from the home of his wife’s parents in Keene, New Hampshire. Judge Lacey\u2019s house was being put on the market. All of its contents had to be removed. Upon my arrival I was stunned to encounter Guy Harris on a similar errand. We\u00a0 had known each other since we were toddlers, but had grown apart over the years. He and I both shared a passion for drawing. While Guy remained focused on wildlife subjects, I was drawn more to the figure and landscape.\u00a0 He had recently married Ninon\u2019s niece Liz Lacey, whom I had never met before. Later that summer I visited Guy and Liz at their home in the Lehigh Valley, only to learn that they were planning to relocate to the Ozarks. Almost fifty years later, the details are vague. Guy and Liz each owned a vehicle, which raised the question who would drive a truckload of household goods from eastern Pennsylvania to northern Arkansas. Being to parsimonious to hire a moving company, I was invited to join the expedition. Once the rented truck was packed, Guy took the wheel, while I drove his heavily laden Japanese-made pickup truck. Liz stayed behind to clear out whatever remained, close the house, and drive to their new home near Mountain View.\u00a0 A full account of our road-trip will have to wait. Driving through Memphis, I noticed a bumper-sticker that read “THE KING AIN\u2019T DEAD. HE JUST MOVED TO A BETTER TOWN.”<\/p>\n

\"\"
\nStone County Courthouse, Mountain View, Arkansas<\/a>. Like many buildings in town, the courthouse is built of the distinctive yellow local limestone.<\/p>\n

Crossing the Big Muddy, Interstate 40 traversed miles of dark soil planted with cotton, blanketed with a pungent cloud of Malathion. Veering off to the north we traveled on blue highways\u2014two-lane blacktop. As with crossing the plains, one ascends in elevation imperceptibly. Our route skirted the White River, which descends through a series of man-made lakes along the Missouri border. They in turn are fed by another series of lakes near Eureka Springs into which flows the headwaters of the White River, the watershed forming what resembles a giant question-mark, looping up toward Missouri before draining into the Mississippi just north of the mouth of the Arkansas River. The Ozarks are unlike the Appalachians or the Rockies in that they are more down than up, created not by geologic upheavals forming high peaks and ridges, but heavily-wooded table-lands riven by declivities hewn by the White River and its tributaries. Much of the town of Mountain View is built of locally-quarried yellow sandstone, similar to the material used for fence-posts found in treeless areas of the Flint Hills of eastern Kansas. It took me a while to realize that the language people spoke was English. The house was off a winding mountain road south of town. I was taken aback at my first sight of it. The wooden bungalow had solid bones, but could be described as having been preserved by benign neglect. The yard was completely overgrown. It needed to be cleared, as did the small barn that stood nearby. We each carried a sidearm lest we encounter a copperhead, which we did more than once. Blue-tailed Skinks ran all over the buildings. One of the first things we carried into the house was a large terrarium, which we set up on the porch. Millions of insects chattered and screamed in the enervating heat. Running into town, we collected necessities at the hardware store. A group of men clustered around a new color-television. Recognizing the theme music, I peered over their shoulders. Onscreen were the towers and canyons of Manhattan. Bald cop<\/a>. Lollipop. Who loves ya, baby?
\nWe were a long way from The Big Apple.
\nReturning to the house, Guy slammed on the brakes. Reaching under the seat, he handed me a large Mason-jar. Jumping out of the pickup he ran back down the road. Moments later he returned, gingerly holding a struggling tarantula by the waist. Quickly I unscrewed the lid. Planting its feel firmly against the rim, the stubborn arachnid resisted confinement with all its strength. Guy would not be denied. Flipping the spider upside-down he dropped it legs up into the jar. Before the fearsome creature could right itself, I closed the jar. Guy stabbed five or six air-holes in the lid with a large belt-knife. The first chore to be tackled upon our return was releasing our quarry into the terrarium. We discovered at sunrise the cover of the glass box ajar. Our guest had vanished. Due to leave in a day or two, I was nervous about our new roommate. He must have cared little for our company, as we never saw him again.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Following the College Art Association<\/a> meeting in Chicago Kathie headed for Bentonville, while I returned to New York. Crystal Bridges provided scholars with accommodation in “The Farmhouse”\u2014a sprawling home beside the museum campus. She was the only resident at the time, and could walk to the museum by way of a footpath from the backyard through a wooded margin. As resident scholar, she was given an office from which she was expected to conduct most of her activities. The working environment was very corporate, orderly and civil. Once an employee who succumbed to a fit of blue language was sent home to ponder what they had done.<\/p>\n

\"\"
\n“Eleven” restaurant: Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art. Bentonville, Arkansas<\/p>\n

During one of my visits to see her I traveled to Pea Ridge battlefield. As a deluge of ink celebrates the deeds of Lee, Jackson, McClellan and Grant, little attention is paid to Civil War actions fought west of the Mississippi. Apache Pass, Cabin Creek, Honey Springs, Prairie Grove and Wilson\u2019s Creek are eclipsed by Antietam, Chattanooga and Gettysburg.<\/p>\n

\"\"
\nBattlefield of Pea Ridge.<\/p>\n

Established as a military park in 1956, the battlefield of Pea Ridge<\/a>\u2014also known as Elkhorn Tavern<\/a>\u2014stretches northward of Route 86 between Avoca and Garfield. On March 7-8, 1862, farm field had yet to be planted. Trees were bare. The mercury hovered near freezing.Confederate forces under Earl van Dorn had been driven out of Missouri, pursued by federals under Samuel R. Curtis. Like a dizzy cotillion, the two-day engagement followed a week-long series of disjointed maneuvers by both armies, each attempting to outflank or envelope the other. Franz Siegel, a firebrand Forty-Eighter whose Germans constituted nearly half of Curtis\u2019s forces, bristled under the authority of his American-born commanding officer. While fellow West Pointer Eugene Asa Carr had no difficulty working within the chain of command, some of Curtis\u2019s officers commanding volunteer units were inclined to exercising their own initiative. Despite the contempt shown militia by the regulars, during the fight a quick-thinking Missourian plugged a gap in Curtis\u2019s line.Confederates also struggled with command and control issues. Earl van Dorn had his hands full coordinating Ben McCullough\u2019s Texans, Sterling Price\u2019s Missourians and a Cherokee Brigade led by Albert Pike<\/a> (1809-1891).<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

As a sidebar, a monument in Washington DC honoring Pike’s contribution to Freemasonry was destroyed by protesters on June 19th of this year. A strong advocate of sculptress Lavinia Ellen “Vinnie” Ream (1847-1914), Pike sponsored her membership in the Order of the Eastern Star. Ream had an antebellum romantic relationship with Cherokee leader Elias Boudinot<\/a>(1835-1890). After the war Vinnie was rumored to have been the secret lover of General William Tecumseh Sherman<\/a> (1820-1891).<\/p>\n

\"\"
\nVinnie Ream. 1847-1914. Celebrated beauty and noted American sculptor whose portrait of Lincoln in the the U.S. Capitol. Lincoln sat for the portrait just prior to his assassination. Mary Lincoln gave Ream the clothes Lincoln wore at Ford’s Theater, so that she could complete the sculpture. Ream’sportrait of Admiral David Farragut stands in the eponymous square in Washington D.C., opposite the Army-Navy Club. In this photograph Vinnie is shown wearing regalia of the Order of the Eastern Star<\/a>.<\/p>\n

When the two armies finally met, it was across farm-fields north of Sugar Creek, fifteen miles northeast of Bentonville. Along the north bank of a feeder-creek to the north is an unpaved trace traversed by the Cherokee and other tribes in 1837-39, bound for Indian Territory on the Trail of Tears.<\/a>
\n\"\"
\nTelegraph or Wire-Road, near Elkhorn Tavern. This roadway was traversed in 1837-39 by victims of the Indian Removal Act of 1830. The various routes followed by Cherokee and other eastern indigenous tribes is known as The Trail of Tears<\/a><\/em>.<\/p>\n

Observing federal deployments near Leetown, Texas general Ben McCullough was shot from his horse by a federal marksman. His death was kept secret for reasons of morale, adding to confusion within the confederate command structure. The first day of fighting was bloody, confused and indecisive. Federal soldiers killed by confederate Cherokees were subjected to scalping, and ritual mutilation. When the sun rose on March 8, confederate commander Earl Van Dorn was informed that his supply train had been withdrawn, a logistical blunder that put him on a cautious footing. Curtis presented the confederates with a textbook line-of-battle across the Telegraph Road facing an eminence known as Big Mountain. Sigel\u2019s artillery opened fire on confederates sheltering below the rise, blasting trees into splinters, shattering the cliff-face into bits of rocky shrapnel. The federal left under Osterhaus attacked the battered rebels, followed by the center led by Jefferson C. Davis and the right, under Eugene Carr. Running low on ammunition, despite superior numbers, Van Dorn ordered a withdrawal, leaving much of southern Missouri and northern Arkansas under federal control.<\/p>\n

\"\"
\nBattle of Leetown (March 7, 1862) and Elkhorn Tavern (March 8) collectively known as the Battle of Pea Ridge.<\/p>\n

The park road carries visitors through fields and woodlots that retain in much the same positions they held in 1862. My rental-car passed cyclists pedaling along the edge of the road. Clusters of cannon mark interpretive sites. Elkhorn Tavern has been reconstructed, with a weathered Wapiti skull decorating it s forward gable. The Telegraph Road or “Wire-Road” that existed during the battle shadowed the same foot-trace followed by victims of the Indian Removal Act of 1830, as they approached their destination in Oklahoma\u2014or “Indian Territory,” as it was known at the time. From parking-areas along the winding road at the summit of Big Mountain, trails lead off to different scenic prospects along the rocky escarpment. Choosing a view overlooking the battlefield of March 8, I opened my sketchbook and produced a watercolor painting across one page-spread. Noting the layout of the fields, tree-lines, and a low prominence known as Little Mountain, I was mindful that the fissured ledge at my feet was where so many confederate casualties were suffered by Siegel\u2019s bombardment. Gone is the caravan of refugees. Gone is the din of mortal combat; the moans of the wounded, and the harvest of death. What I beheld was more than historic scenery; a palimpsest of pioneer enterprise, indigenous genocide, and internecine violence that over time has become both educational tool and recreational destination. Similar tales abide in any location, should one make the effort to discover them.<\/p>\n

\"\" Inscribed across the top of the pages: “View of Pea Ridge Battlefield from the great overlook above Elkhorn Tavern. 4\/7\/14”<\/p>\n

Follow The Sketchbook Traveler<\/strong> on Facebook<\/a>, Linkedin<\/a>, Twitter<\/a> and Instagram<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Peruse previous posts here. Dispatches #1-70. April 1-June 8, 2020.<\/a>
\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

March 8, 1862 Battlefield of Pea Ridge\/Elkhorn Tavern. Arkansas. April 7, 2014. In February of 2014 Kathie began a residency at Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art in Bentonville Arkansas. She had never been to that part of the country. I had traveled to the Ozarks once before. In 1977, Yale School of Art professor … Continue reading Sketchbook Traveler. July 7, 2020. Dispatch # 74. March 7-8, 1862 Battlefield of Pea Ridge \/ Elkhorn Tavern. April 7, 2014<\/span> →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-7197","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-blog"],"yoast_head":"\nSketchbook Traveler. July 7, 2020. Dispatch # 74. March 7-8, 1862 Battlefield of Pea Ridge \/ Elkhorn Tavern. 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