SKETCHBOOK TRAVELER: Dispatch #86. Hall of Horrors


Crotalus oreganus helleri. Joshua Tree National Monument. October 11, 2017

Heading south into the park from the town of Twenty-Nine Palms, one passes striking rock-formations with colorful names like Skull Rock and Hall of Horrors, where I had a run-in with a deadly Southern Pacific rattlesnake. Like its cousin the Mojave Sidewinder, it has distinctive green-and-buff coloration. Taking note of one another, we parted without incident. As Kathie and I withdrew from the site, we warned a group of youths in light raiment wearing flip-flops and suntan lotion not to proceed. Scornful of the danger and sage advice from their elders, they forged ahead. When we got finally got a cellphone signal, we called the visitor center to note our concern. A ranger back at the visitor center brought out a loose-leaf binder. “We have seven venomous species in the park. The one you saw is one of the deadliest, with three kinds of poison; a hemotoxin, neurotoxin and powerful flesh-rotting digestive enzymes. Probably he was looking to score another meal before going into hibernation.” I ask if many visitors get bitten each year. Relatively few, he tells me. Those who do usually provoked the creature, or threatened it in some way. People lose dogs by letting them run off the leash in warmer seasons when snakes are active. The nearest hospital is in Yucca Valley, forty-five-minutes from where we encountered the rattler. Cellphone reception exists only within a few miles of Twentynine Palms. In such an environment, being mindfulness can save lives.

Journal entry:
“October 11, 2017. Returning from a tour of the SE portion of JTNP, Pinto Peak + Cholla Cactus Garden, Kathie and I visited Skull Rock, then decided to take a late-day look at a colorfully-named rock-pile called hall of Horrors. I led the way. Passing between two boulders, I turned a corner and came face-to-face, or rather foot-to-face with a large green rattlesnake stretched across the trail. It was as startled as was I. Calling out “snake” I backed away. As I did, the creature turned slowly toward me, preparing to coil itself into a defensive position. As Kathie and I emerged from the rocky corridor, a young couple from Germany came bounding along. I gave them warning, even showed them how the snake was coiled, but haven’t (an) idea whether or not they heeded my advice. Crotalus Oreganus helleri, aka Southern Pacific Rattlesnake. Beautiful animal—equally deadly. This one was six feet in length.”

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